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Exterior drains

Footing Drain Repair

Expose, repair and replace foundation footing drains that have silted, crushed or separated and are letting water into a crawlspace.

Brass elbow and clamp connecting blue PEX to an older line in a muddy excavation

A footing drain is the perforated pipe that runs around the base of a foundation and carries groundwater away before it finds a way into the crawlspace or basement. On a lot of Kitsap homes built from the 1960s through the 1990s it's thin corrugated plastic laid without fabric or clean rock, and after thirty or forty years it's silted solid, crushed, separated at the joints, or full of roots. The result is a crawlspace that's wet every winter, efflorescence on the foundation, musty smells, and in the worst cases standing water under the house.

Repairing a footing drain means exposing it. We excavate along the foundation, carefully, to the depth of the footing, remove the failed drain, and install new perforated pipe wrapped in filter fabric on a bed of clean drain rock, sloped to a working outlet. On a lot of homes the original outlet was a daylight pipe that has long since been buried or crushed, so we rebuild that too, or tie into a sump or a storm connection where that's the right answer. Then the trench is backfilled with drain rock and fabric, not native clay, so the drain keeps working.

We often find and fix a leaking water service line and a failed footing drain on the same house, because they live in the same trench along the foundation. If the water line is passing through the same excavation we'll tell you what it's made of and what shape it's in while the ground is open.

When you need footing drain repair

  • A crawlspace or basement that's wet every rainy season
  • Standing water or saturated soil under the house
  • Efflorescence or staining on foundation walls
  • A footing drain outlet that never flows, even in a downpour
  • Crushed corrugated pipe found at the foundation during other work

How the job goes

  1. Diagnose. Check the crawlspace, find the outlet, trace the drain, and confirm the footing drain is the problem rather than surface grading or a downspout.
  2. Excavate the foundation. Careful excavation to footing depth along the affected walls, with shoring and spoils managed on a tight site.
  3. Remove and replace. Old drain out; new perforated pipe in fabric on clean drain rock, sloped to the outlet.
  4. Outlet. A rebuilt daylight outlet, a sump, or a storm tie-in, whichever actually gets the water away.
  5. Backfill with rock. Drain rock and fabric in the trench so the system keeps draining for decades.
  6. Restore. Grade sloped away from the house, and the beds, lawn or hardscape put back.

Equipment and materials

  • Perforated PVC or HDPE footing drain pipe
  • Filter fabric and clean drain rock
  • Cleanouts and outlet structures
  • Sump basins where needed

What shapes the scope

Every property is different, and these are the things that decide whether a job is a quick morning or a full day. We'll tell you which it is before we start.

  • How much of the foundation perimeter is affected
  • Depth to the footing and soil conditions
  • Access along the foundation: decks, patios, planting beds
  • Where the outlet is and whether it has to be rebuilt
From the field

Footing Drain Repair on real Kitsap jobs

Brass compression fitting joining new blue PEX water line to an existing supply pipe in an open trench
New brass fitting tying a blue PEX service line into the existing supply
Narrow trench opened along a house wall beside an outdoor AC condenser to reach a leaking supply line
Opening a tight trench beside a heat pump pad
Blue PEX water line laid in a trench along a foundation next to a corrugated drain pipe
New PEX supply run beside an existing corrugated footing drain
Blue PEX service line routed beneath a wooden utility enclosure against the house siding
Routing a new supply line under a built-in enclosure
Brass elbow and clamp connecting blue PEX to an older line in a muddy excavation
Brass elbow transition on a repaired service line
Long run of blue PEX water line in an open trench along a house with ferns and a deck
New service line run along the house toward the entry point
Black poly water line laid in a trench along a shingle-sided home with spoils on a tarp
Poly service line laid to the foundation entry
Black poly pipe in a narrow trench beside a laurel hedge
Threading the new line past the hedge
Black poly water line in a trench with hand tools and a cone on a wooded lot
New line in the trench, tools staged for the connection
Where we do this

Footing Drain Repair across the peninsula

Each community page covers what the local ground, water utility and housing stock mean for this work.

Footing Drain Repair in Bremerton

The shipyard city's older galvanized lines fail quietly and show up as a wet lawn or a water bill nobody can explain.

Footing Drain Repair in Silverdale

The 1980s and 90s subdivision boom around the mall left thousands of polybutylene service lines that are now failing on schedule.

Footing Drain Repair in Port Orchard

The county seat's hillside lots and clay soils turn small leaks into slope problems, and long rural runs hide breaks for months.

Footing Drain Repair in Poulsbo

Little Norway's mix of century-old downtown lines and fast-draining bay-side outwash means leaks hide well and fail suddenly.

Footing Drain Repair in Bainbridge Island

Clay soils and 500-foot driveways make island leaks slow to surface and expensive to guess at, which is why we locate before we dig.

Footing Drain Repair in Kingston

Ferry-town acreage with long wooded service runs where a leak can hide under hardpan for an entire winter.

Footing Drain Repair in Keyport

A century-old Navy village with short lots, old lines and shoreline clay that keeps everything damp.

Footing Drain Repair in Tracyton

Bluff-side lots over Dyes Inlet where seeps and springs make it easy to mistake groundwater for a leak and vice versa.

Footing Drain Repair in Hansville

Beach cabins at the tip of the peninsula with shallow lines, high water tables and a long drive for anyone who isn't already in Kitsap.

Footing Drain Repair in Indianola

A century-old summer colony where shared lines, easements and bluff clay make leaks a neighborhood puzzle.

Footing Drain Repair in Suquamish

Two utilities, mixed-era housing and Agate Pass shoreline clay in the heart of the Port Madison reservation.

Footing Drain Repair in Manchester

Rich Passage waterfront lots where the service line runs downhill and every leak finds the beach.

Footing Drain Repair in Enetai

East Bremerton's bluff-side neighborhood where mid-century copper lines fail on slopes that drain toward the bay.

Footing Drain Repair in Lofall

Rural acreage between Poulsbo and the Hood Canal Bridge where well lines run hundreds of feet through hardpan.

Footing Drain Repair in Olalla

Well country at the south end of Kitsap where a leaking line shows up as a pump that won't shut off.

Footing Drain Repair in Seabeck

Hood Canal forest parcels where boulders, hardpan and long well lines make guessing at a leak an expensive mistake.

Footing Drain Repair in East Port Orchard

South Kitsap's 1970s and 80s subdivisions where copper and poly lines are reaching the end of their run.

Footing Drain Repair in Rollingbay

The northeast corner of Bainbridge where clay slopes, long drives and small community systems keep leaks hidden for seasons.

Footing Drain Repair in Port Townsend

A Victorian seaport where 1890s service lines sit under historic sidewalks and the gravity pipeline from the Quilcene delivers the water.

FAQ

Footing Drain Repair: common questions

Do you have to dig up the whole foundation?
Not always. Often one or two walls are the problem, usually on the uphill side. We diagnose first and excavate only what needs it.
Can you add a footing drain to a house that never had one?
Yes. The process is the same: excavate to the footing, install the drain, and get it to an outlet.

Something underground isn't right?

We answer 24 hours a day. We locate before we dig, and we handle the whole job with our own crew and equipment.

Call (206) 354-9906